Hands-On Jaeger-LeCoultre Updates Its Complicated Duometre Collection With A Trio Of New Watches

JLC introduced the first Duometre in 2007, debuting the innovative idea of having two separate barrels and mainsprings drive the timekeeping and complications but integrating them into a single caliber and escapement. It's a solution to a problem that plagues any watch with a complication (especially chronographs), where the complication can drain the power, decreasing accuracy and power reserve. JLC first applied this Duometre idea in a chronograph in 2007, and has applied it to tourbillons, moonphases, and even sonneries since.

For 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre has combined a chronograph, moonphase, day-night indicator, and a flying seconds (seconde foudroyante) at 6 o'clock that runs when the chronograph is engaged, and is accurate to 1/6th of a second. A lot is going on with the Duometre Chronograph Moon, inside and out. JLC is offering a rose gold version with opaline dial ($70,000) and a platinum version with copper dial ($86,000).

Let's talk about the movement first, the new caliber 391 that builds on previous generations of the Duometre caliber. It starts with twin barrels wound via the single crown – turn one way to wind one, the other way to wind the other, with a ratchet system engaging to prevent over-winding. JLC originally made its Duometre movements from nickel silver (commonly called German silver), an alloy with copper that gives it a warm luster that only gets better with age. Not only that, it's also more difficult to work with, which is why enthusiasts swoon when brands like Lange use it. Sadly, JLC has retired the use of nickel silver in the new caliber 391.

Still, the new movement is an impressive and complicated technical feat. While the dial looks equally complex, it's pretty intuitive to read. The left side tells the time, with a new day-night indicator in the middle of the subdial. On the right side are the chronograph's functions, with a 12-hour and 60-minute counter and a moonphase. The chronograph seconds sweeps across the dial and is operated with a monopusher at 2 o'clock. The flying seconds at 6 o'clock zooms around as soon as the chronograph is engaged and sits between two power reserve indicators for each of the separate barrels.

JLC has reworked the case and it now measures 42.5x 14.2mm. It's big, but not unwearable. JLC says it took inspiration from its old savonette pocket watches from the 1800s for the construction. (Savonette, in French, is a small disc of soap with rounded contours that sits in the palm of your hand – use that next time you're staying at the Holiday Inn Express!).

The case has a mix of polished, brushed, and blasted surfaces. Most notably, the lugs are welded on, rather than an integrated part of the midcase – an old-fashioned case construction that not many manufacturers use today. The glassbox crystal seamlessly integrates into the thin bezel and the dial is also curved to match the shape of the crystal.

The new case wears nicely on the wrist, especially for a larger, complicated watch. The lugs curve down to meet the wrist, matching the shape of the dial and crystal. The reworked case also reads as less slab sided, meaning you don't experience as much of the thickness on wrist.

The Duometre Chronograph Moon comes with a pink gold case and opaline dial or a platinum case with copper-salmon dial. (The hand treatment is also different between the two.) The platinum version is the clear standout, though, of course it comes with a premium. It's hefty on the wrist but not top-heavy, and wears nicely on an alligator strap. While it's delivered on a pin buckle, it feels like a watch of this caliber deserves a deployant.

Alongside the new Duometre Chronograph Moon, JLC also introduced a new steel version of the Quantieme Lunaire that uses the existing caliber 381. It's the first Duometre ever in steel, and like the Chronograph Moon, uses the updated Duometre case. It's decidedly less complicated than the latest Duometre, but once you engage that chronograph and the foudroyante seconds starts flying at 6 o'clock, you'd be forgiven for forgetting. It feels like an olive branch towards those folks – like me at the beginning of this article – who often want simple and steel, even from a watchmaker like JLC. Price: $44,300

Finally, Jaeger-LeCoultre also introduced the limited Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual. It's the supercar of the updated Duometre lineup, featuring a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon that spins on three axes. The new manual-wind caliber 388 also features a large date, and the partially openworked dial shows off the spinning tourbillon. Seeing the complexity and relative wearability of this technical behemoth of a watch made me appreciate not only the rest of the Duometre lineup, but also JLC's continued commitment to watchmaking. Price: $438,000, limited to 20 pieces.

Yes, I still want the Reversos and Polarises from Jaeger-LeCoultre. But, it's also one of the few group brands that continues to push watchmaking forward at scale. My favorite JLC watches are those that balance its heritage and high-end watchmaking (like last year's Reverso Chronograph), and the Duometre skews decidedly more high-end, but it's impressive to see JLC's continued pursuit of technical watchmaking for its own sake. 

For more, check out the Duometre on Jaeger-LeCoultre's website.